Springs and Suspension Links
When it comes to suspension springs Race Tech is about the most respected name in the business. Here is a link to their sight. Click here for Race Tech's home page. At their website you can find tons of information about all things suspension related. They also have very handy tables that show all of the stock specs and available suspension products for your dr. Also they have a very nice spring rate calculation table where you enter your specific data and the work table determines the proper springs to be used.
For purchasing Race Tech products or for having suspension service performed we recommend that you contact our friend Rick here at THIS ADDRESS:
How do you know if you need different suspension springs? Well if your fork and shock oil levels and charges are proper and yet you are excessively bottoming out the suspension............then you could likely use stronger springs.
Springs come in different rates which simply means they are easier or harder to compress. Springs also are often available in either a "straight rate" or a "progressive rate" A "straight rate" spring will compress at an even rate. A "progressive rate" spring will become harder to compress the MORE you compress it.
One old trick for seeing how you are loading your forks and shock is to place a plastic zip tie on the fork tube or shock shaft. Position the zip tie so that the suspension can "PUSH" it to show the maximum compression during riding. Now go and ride your bike and wherever the zip tie ends up will indicate how much of your suspension travel you are using up. It is good to use most all of the suspension travel. If you are using less than most of the travel then you need softer springs. If you are frequently bottoming out the suspension then you need stronger springs.
Rick at the link above can help guide you with spring rates and you can also feel free to use the race tech link above to calculate spring rates.
What About Lowering Links?
Norm Kouba of Kouba Links is the most knowledgeable person out there when it comes to lowering links.
Please feel free to browse Norm's website for information and don't hesitate to contact him with your questions! You can find his website by just CLICKING RIGHT HERE.
You may have the desire to lower your Suzuki Dr 350. You have maybe have 4 options for lowering the DR. You can have the front forks and rear shock internally modified, You can replace or cut down the seat foam, you can install 17" Super Motard wheels, and you can use lowering links.
Essentially the lowering links are replacement "dog bone type links" for the rear suspension.
Norm has a #1 link kit that will drop the bike about 3/4", the #2 link for a 1 1/4" drop, and the #3 link will cause about a 1 3/4" drop in the rear suspension of the bike. Not only do these longer than stock links "LOWER" the bike but they also apply a "progressive" type of leverage against the spring. So, if you run these links you probably do not want to use a "progressive rate" type spring. Also, the links, particularly the #2, and #3, will increase leverage against the spring, thus, you may likely need a STRONGER rear spring with these links installed and Norm will be happy to advise you on this matter. As you lower the rear of the bike with these links you will need to lower the front to match as closely as you can. If you drop the rear 3/4" then you should plan on dropping the front 3/4" also. With the #2 and #3 link you may find that your forks will hit the handlebars preventing you from lowering the front as much as the rear. In this instance you may be able to use an offset handlebar mount to allow more adjustment.
I personally have not ran these links. But a lot of people have and a lot of people like them. Here are a couple of informative discussions I ran across if you are interested in some more discussion about lowering links for your Suzuki DR 350. Lowering link discussion CLICK HERE. For a slightly different discussion CLICK HERE.
